[1] (Unger 2004)

[2] (Unger 2004)

Beer has traditionally been divided into two primary branches, thus beer is generally brewed as either ale or a lager.  The key difference between these two branches is that ales use top-fermenting yeasts while lagers utilize bottom-fermenting yeasts.  While some bottom fermented beers were produced in monasteries, primarily in southern Germany during Luther’s day, most beer at this time was brewed as top-fermented ales (Note:   yeast’s involvement in the fermentation process would not be understood until Louis Pasteur’s discovery in the early 1800’s correlates to the rise of the so-called “lager revolution”).  Top fermented ales were more likely to produce complex, highly flavored (even fruity), possibly a bit sour, and/or cloudy beers that were likely to display varied colors, flavors, strengths, and qualities due to the general lack of temperature control, proper hygiene, and the presence of lactic bacteria.   This is the brewing world Martin Luther grew-up, lived, and worked in. 

Prior to the 2013 summer semester class’s departure for Germany, “In the Footsteps of the Reformers,” I meet with the General Manager and Brewer at the Appalachian Brewing Company’s (ABC) Gettysburg operation along with John Spangler who serves as Gettysburg Seminary’s Executive Assistant to the President for Communication and Planning.  Both institutions expressed a willingness to support a joint brewing venture to celebrate Martin Luther during Reformation week.  During my ABC discussions I took time to determine what type of information would be helpful to them during the upcoming trip. 

After arriving in Germany on May 27, 2013 one or more participants accompanied me in visiting at least one brewpub/brewery each day of the trip, besides local bars/restaurants, in order to explore the local beer scene.  At our first stop (Wittenberg) I heard pilsner was the local favorite; however I already knew pilsner beer originated in the City of Pilsen (modern-day Czech Republic) as part of the early 19^th century’s “Lager Revolution.”  Our very first brewpub visit (Brauhaus Wittenberg) established what would be confirmed at all later brewpub visits, namely that only four beers were produced in modern German Brewpubs at any time.  The four beers produced in German brewpubs during this trip included three regular or year-round offerings (Original-an unfiltered pilsner (lager), Dunkles-an unfiltered dark beer (lager), HefeWeizen-an unfiltered wheat beer (ale), and a seasonal beer  or Special which was a Saison or Farmhouse Style Ale at that time).  While these beers were all good, none of them could be directly linked to Martin Luther from any historical record. 

As the trip progressed from Wittenberg to the Thuringian capital in Erfurt, we had the opportunity to taste several “Schwartz” or black beers which are specialty beers in the German states of Thuringia and Saxony.  Remembering how Martin Luther grew up, attended University, and joined the Augustinian Order in Thuringia, before being called to teach at the new University in Wittenberg (Saxony), “kidnapped” to the Wartburg Castle in Eisenach (Thuringia), and returned to Wittenberg I can imagine Schwartz ale served Martin Luther as an everyday “comfort food” like drink.  

Today, Schwartz beer is brewed as a dark lager beer which has an opaque; black color; and a full, chocolaty, or coffee flavor, likes many modern stouts or porters.  During our visit to the Wartburg Castle, and upon re-hearing the story of Luther throwing his ink pot when the devil appeared to distract him while he was translating the New Testament, and the subsequent tradition of the black mark on “Knight George’s” wall, I realized Schwartz (or Black beer) had potential for the Fall Academy’s beer with names like:  “The Devil made Me do it Black,” “Word Winning Black,” “Throw-out the Devil Black,” etc.  One challenge to using this beer style is that Schwartz beer in Luther’s day was brewed as a top fermenting ale even though today it is brewed as a bottom fermenting lager.

Upon returning to Wittenberg, we were able to explore the Luther house in the former Black Friar’s Monastery.  I found two references to beer within the Luther House exhibits.  In the cellar an exhibit discussed Katie’s brewing role and the location of her former brewery in the NE corner of the courtyard.  During the guided museum tour I was reminded how Luther also received a gift of several barrels of Einbeck beer from the Prince Elector of Saxony on the occasion of Martin and Katie’s wedding (June 15, 1525). 

Einbeck beer has been brewed since at least 1325 and is considered the most famous beer of the middle ages because it was available throughout Germany and as far away as Jerusalem.  Einbeck beer, like Schwarz beer, also began as a top fermented ale but was subsequently produced as a lager during the early 19^th century.  Einbeck started with a 2/3 barley malt and 1/3 wheat malt mix that did not use kiln-dried malt so as to produce an ale which was both “yellow in color and clear.”[1]  H.S. Rich & Co. continues to relate how Einbeck (ale) was generally brewed between St. Martin’s day (same as Martin Luther’s Baptismal day - November 11, 1483) and the first of May.  The 1613 edition of Von Bergzabern’s Herbal, as quoted in One Hundred Years of Brewing, describes Einbeck as being “thin, subtle, clear, of bitter taste, has a pleasant acidity on the tongue, and many other good qualities.”[2]  Because this beer was known to maintain its quality and was commonly shipped long distances One Hundred Years of Brewing states, “it stands to reason that it was not only rich in malt, hence alcohol, but also strongly hopped.”[3]  Kihm Winsip in the blog, “The Beers of Martin Luther” relates, “If you do wish to drink beers similar to the beers Luther drank, the closest you will come are probably today’s Belgian Abbey Ales … whose top fermentation, complex flavors, full attenuation, and highly individual character are all in keeping with the beers of the monasteries that Luther knew as a young man, and with many more of the beers of Luther’s time.”[4] 

From his own pen Martin Luther enjoyed home-brewed beer, Luther scholar Luther Peterson relates Martin frequently began invitations with a notice that Katie had brewed another barrel of beer.   Martin’s letters to “Katie” often compared any local beer to that brewed by Katie and/or to Einbeck